Retinal: How to Start Without Damaging Your Skin

Retinal is the most talked-about anti-ageing active right now, and for good reason. But it's also the one that does the most damage when introduced too fast — we've seen plenty of skin wrecked by a bottle used every night from week one.

Retinol, retinal, tretinoin: the difference

All belong to the retinoid family, derivatives of vitamin A. The only form genuinely active in the skin is retinoic acid. Everything else has to convert into it.

Retinol needs two successive conversions. Retinal — or retinaldehyde — needs only one: it's markedly faster, while tolerance stays reasonable. Tretinoin is retinoic acid itself, available on prescription only.

Retinal therefore sits in an interesting spot: more effective than retinol, gentler than tretinoin, and available without a prescription.

What it actually does

It speeds up cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, evens out skin texture and helps unclog pores. It works on dark spots and post-acne marks too, more slowly.

It isn't an active with an immediate effect. Allow twelve weeks for the first effects on fine lines, and six months for a clear result on firmness.

The introduction protocol

This is the part that matters. Don't cut it short.

Weeks 1 and 2: two evenings a week, say Tuesday and Saturday. A pea-sized amount for the whole face, on clean and completely dry skin — wait ten minutes after cleansing, as damp skin absorbs too fast and irritates.

Weeks 3 and 4: three evenings a week, if and only if the skin hasn't gone red or flaked.

Weeks 5 to 8: every other evening.

Beyond that: every evening if your skin tolerates it. Plenty of people do perfectly well staying at every other evening, and that's entirely enough.

At the first sign of irritation, go back to the previous stage for two weeks. You don't "push through" with a retinoid: you step back.

The sandwich technique

If your skin is reactive, apply a thin layer of moisturiser, then the retinal, then the moisturiser again.

This slows penetration and clearly reduces irritation, while barely reducing effectiveness. It's the method we recommend for starting out if you're hesitant.

What you must never combine it with

The same evening as an exfoliant. AHAs, BHAs, PHAs: never at the same time. Alternate evenings.

At the same time as vitamin C. Vitamin C in the morning, retinal in the evening, and all is well.

Two retinoids at once. A retinal serum plus a retinol cream is a double dose with no double benefit.

During pregnancy or breastfeeding. Retinoids aren't advised. Talk to your doctor; azelaic acid or bakuchiol are the usual alternatives suggested.

Sunscreen isn't negotiable

A retinoid temporarily thins the outer layer of skin and makes it more vulnerable to UV.

Without daily sunscreen, you'll create more dark spots than you fade. It's the entry condition: if you aren't ready to wear SPF 50 every morning, don't start retinal.

The adjustment period

The first three to six weeks can be unpleasant: mild flaking, tightness, sometimes a breakout caused by the accelerated turnover.

That's expected, and it passes. What is not normal: burning, red patches that persist, swelling, skin that stings on contact with water. In those cases, stop and follow the skin barrier repair protocol.

Who it's for, and at what age

From your late twenties as prevention, earlier if the goal is skin texture or post-acne marks.

If your skin is irritated right now, wait until you've repaired it. Retinal has to be earned: you need a skin barrier in good shape to handle it.

You'll find our serums and ampoules sorted by active, and the wrinkles and lifting selection if that's your main concern.

If you're unsure what suits your skin, the skin diagnostic takes two minutes.